Afternoon man

Thursday afternoon. Not a Gringo in sight.

WHEN I MOVED from the state capitol to this pueblo on the mountaintop over 16 years ago you could count the number of Gringos here on the hands of four people.

There were oddballs and misfits among them, a lunatic or two, probably even some crooks on the lam. My arrival brought normality and intelligence into the mix.

Flash forward to today, and the Gringo population — I’m including Canucks —  has increased 10-fold.

And they’re becoming more humdrum people. I haven’t heard of anybody being extradited in years.

Alas, they seem mostly to be a left-wing lot, which appears to be the norm for northerners who move over the Rio Bravo. Conservatives stay above the border, mostly.

There are two Yahoo forums that service our area. One is called Michoacán Net and the other is Morelia Connect. The latter is the older, but the former is the more populated.

Michoacán Net is full of left-wingers, and Morelia Connect is more convivial for conservatives. Michoacán Net says “no politics,” but if you phrase a left-wing issue just right, it’s fine and dandy. Not so for conservative issues.

About 10 days before the U.S. presidential election, someone announced on Michoacán Net an election night celebration. There was no mention of the candidates, but you knew who they thought they would be celebrating.


Election night came and went, and there’s been no more mention of that fiesta. Maybe they threw a wake.

One odd thing about the Gringos here is that they circulate downtown almost entirely in the mornings. My schedule is just the opposite. I’m rarely downtown in the mornings, but I’m there most every afternoon.

tequilaSo I rarely see them. I think in the afternoons they are back at their adobe homes, soused on tequila and ready for their nappies.

I, on the other hand, am sitting at a sidewalk table with a café Americano negro, reading my Kindle and watching beautiful Latinas walk by.

I am an afternoon man.

14 thoughts on “Afternoon man

  1. We didn’t see many either. The chap that runs a shop on the corner near the big cathedral is the only one I remember. In SMA, they were everywhere and quite obvious with bouffant grey hair, talking loud, and bulldozing down the sidewalk. I hope I can join you on the square this coming year. Bad planning on my part for missing you on the trip earlier this year. Your Ville is where we want to spend the most time.


    1. Steve: You must have been out and about in the afternoon. The Gringos are fairly obvious in the mornings, especially in a sidewalk café and restaurant called La Surtidora on the main plaza.

      The chap you mention with the store is named Rick. He’s a good chap, and he has another store on the main plaza. He used to run a restaurant, but that didn’t pan out in the long run.

      Yeah, come on back down.


      1. Yes, was never there in the AM. Yes, that’s him. The lady from California that runs his shop on the square is also very nice. She gave us a lot of good advice on what to see.

        Those Yahoo groups are picky. I wonder if I tell them Felipe sent me I’d get Premier membership access? I’m anxious to see if you stir things up like the old Mexconnect days.


        1. Steve: I almost never post on the lefty forum. It’s impossible to have any fun there because leftys are not fun folks. And I don’t do much on the other one either aside from announce my child bride’s weekly pastry sale.

          Here’s an example of how un-fun the lefty forum is. Its stated purpose is “the arts” in our area even though the arts are rarely mentioned. It’s all about other stuff like banks, saving dogs, feeding old Mexicans, the best route to such-and-such place. I opined there that perhaps the stated purpose of the forum should be more broad since the arts are rarely mentioned.

          My suggestion was deleted immediately.


  2. I fondly recall many late afternoon, early evening cafecitos at the plaza, admiring the lovely senoritas as they strolled by…


    1. Mark: You should come back. It ain’t been the same without you. That’s what all the womenfolk say too. I have overheard them:

      Where’s Mark? Where’s Mark? Where’s that handsome devil Mark?


      1. Devil is the key word amigo… Perhaps with my new shock of silver they might think of me as dashing?
        I would love to return and dream of it often….

        Liked by 1 person

  3. One of the man reasons I don’t come down in the afternoon is a lot of the mercado periphery stores start to close and the carneceria that we frequent shuts down mid-afternoon.

    I did buzz by the other day and saw that there were lots of parking spaces, as you say, in the afternoon. I used to try and make it down to the corner coffee spot regularly but soon discovered that the conversations in the adjoining tables make me disgusted. Not by the locals but by the Gringos. So, I shy away from that place more often than not now.

    If there was a nice welcoming place somewhere else, I may go back to my ritual perhaps even in the early afternoon. Too bad there isn’t a nice little coffee cart that would be located in the plaza where one could partake in the warm liquid while sitting on the bench enjoying the wide-open surroundings of the big plaza.

    I love to people-watch but also need to retain my sanity, what little there is left of that.

    I would have loved to have been at that party, just to see the unique disappointment on their faces. That little clip I sent you made it to the national news last night, on Hannity’s program. It was perfect.

    How sad that being able to hold on to a conversation with divergent ideas is as rare as whales in Lake Patzcuaro.

    We had a small get-together last Sunday, and I had a great refreshing conversation with four or five Mexican friends about the topic. Even with several adult beverages consumed we all had a rewarding interchange, without any shouting, name calling and rioting.

    In my last 18 years here, I have never seen anyone getting in anyone’s face over discussions, in contrast to the same NOB.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Tancho: I only saw one reference on that forum to the election-night “celebration.” And it was about 10 days before Nov. 8. I don’t think the celebration ever occurred. When I saw the one announcement of it, I grinned broadly because I felt pretty strongly they were in for a big disappointment. And, happily, they were.


    2. PS: Ah that video, the one with Henry. I’m surprised and pleased Hannity showed it. It’s a hoot. For anybody wondering what we’re talking about, I put the video in the comment section of the previous post, the one titled Waffles & snowflakes.


  4. Morelia’s expat community has a similar divide. Those who live south of Camelinas, up on the hill, lean toward the right, and those who live in Centro tend toward the other direction. And while they remain on friendly terms, as a group, they don’t mix much. The hill folk, like hill folk the world over, tend to keep to themselves, keeping themselves so busy with their gardens, houses, and other stuff that they don’t have the time or inclination to attend to cultural events and expat cocktail parties. Some of that fabric, unbeknown to those who now occupy Santa Maria and Vista Bella, was laid by the late, great Ray Cote, who started the Villa Montana. Cote was an ardent anti-Communist who invited the leading stars of the HUAC and conservative Hollywood to his hotel in its early days, and they brought their friends. Nearly all of the crowd who got their Morelia initiation at the Villa Montana, moving here, are now dead and gone. There are maybe three living expats who even remember those days. We’re frankly more interested in what’s on sale at Costco and the latest finds at Walmart and Sanborns than what’s playing at the Teatro Ocampo.

    Even the coffee shops and restaurants we patronize differ from those favored by the liberal expat crowd.


Comments are closed.