Gonna be a hard winter


IT FROZE at the Hacienda Monday night. A little birdie told me, or rather a little birdie bath. That’s the most obvious sign of an overnight freeze, the talavera birdbath on the Jesus Patio freezes over.

Another clue is frost on the grass.

This does not make me happy. Just because I loathe heat, and that being one of the main reasons I chose to end my life here on the mountaintop, does not mean that shivering pastes a smile on my face. It does not.

The cold does serve one fine purpose. It keeps the Gringos from moving here, or rather it used to, or seemed to. It doesn’t appear to be working so well these last few years because more and more have followed me here to altitude.

The Gringos are a hoot. Yeah, I know I used to be one, but I’m less so now than before even though I make a really lousy Mexican. Caught somewhere in the middle, a sort of weirdo limbo.

Late yesterday afternoon I was sitting at a sidewalk table on the big plaza, as I often do, with a nice café Americano negro when a couple of Gringo tourists walked by. Maybe they were Canucks. They all look alike.

I was bundled up with a jacket and scarf, wishing I had gloves, and this goofy pair walks by in shorts, tank tops and flip-flops. I doubt they did that intentionally. I suspect it’s the only sort of clothing they brought.

It’s Mexico, you know. It’s hot. Everywhere.

After finishing my café, I walked around the plaza, investigating the extensive street renovation that’s under way that will take months. I took the photo during that unscheduled scroll. As you can see, it was just after 6 p.m.

It’s gonna be a hard winter.

20 thoughts on “Gonna be a hard winter

  1. Those gringos were probably Canadians. They just don’t feel the cold. Besides, they came down here to live in shorts and flip-flops and dammit, they’re gonna do it regardless of the temps. Same deal here, where I’m in Uggs and long pants.


    1. Bliss: Glad to see you have not vanished from my life. But Uggs and long pants? Why would that be fitting there on the beach? Unless you have moved elsewhere without checking in. I would not want to think that.


  2. We’ve had several freezes too at our own mountaintop outside of San Miguel too. Wood in the fireplace at night. But then the sun comes out and it’s 60 or 70 by noon and it’s good. BTW dear Felipe, don’t try so hard to pass for Mexican. You’re going to hurt yourself, my friend. We’re both old. America is in our genes.



    1. Señor Lanier: We have two fireplaces. They do pretty much squat as far as heating is concerned, so I’ve mostly abandoned them. They do well for romantic atmosphere now and then. As I write this, 7 a.m., I have not been outside to check either the thermometer on the veranda wall or the water in the birdbath, so did it freeze again last night? I hope not.

      As for my being a Mexican, I am, and I have the passport and citizenship document to prove it (12 years now), and I speak Spanish exclusively at home. Am I a typical Mexican? Hardly. Do I even attempt to fit in or assimilate? Not even a little bit. But yes, America is in my genes, I guess you could say. But I am severely disappointed in America’s direction. I don’t want to be a part of it, and since I have not even set foot there in about nine years and have no intention of ever doing so again, I think my saying that I live in a weirdo limbo is accurate. Life happens.


  3. Felipe,

    No freezing temperatures yet over here in San Antonio Tlayacapan. However, it is cold enough to make the morning walk to the gym in shorts and t-shirt a brisk one. Had to put a blanket on the bed too. Hope all else is well with you and the child bride on the mountain.



    1. Troy: Your report illustrates why it’s better for the Gringos to settle in Mexico at a lower altitude. It’s just more comfy. Well, that is, unless one settles on the coast. Then it’s not comfy at all, at least as I measure it.

      Yes, all is well here, thanks. If you don’t include the chattering of teeth in the mornings.


  4. Headed to the sand of Cozumel via the Gulf later today. Destination not the main intent. That being the Rocky King Band cruise for purpose of dancing to some western swing. Cold I’m not for the next few days. And that’s ok with me.
    Saludos Señor!


  5. The last conversation I participated in was about the bull pizzle tacos. I was waiting to see if you had something to say about the misbehaving Hollywood elite and the horny politicians. I see Matt Lauer got the axe this morning. Sometimes it is just best to pull up your pants and go home.


    1. Señor Gill: The rampaging accusations, some true, some not, of sexual misconduct in your country has reached epic, silly and ridiculous levels. This is fueled by angry feminists, pure and simple. Just one more example of the collapse of American society.

      Glad I live in Mexico.


  6. You’re turning into a softie this winter on your nose bleeding mountaintop. Even your heart melted at the sight of a well-behaved baby. Will wonders never cease?


    1. Andrés: Cute babies are, well, cute. There’s no getting around it, and since they go home with their parents in short order, and they don’t talk back, they are perfect humans.


  7. When you say you hate the heat be careful what you wish for. The Goddess may be listening. Back home in Vancouver, and it’s a relatively balmy 9 degrees Celsius. Light drizzle and overcast. We can handle that, I think.


    1. Brent: Nine degrees Celsius (about 48 degrees in real temp terms) is just about ideal in my book. You don’t sweat, and your teeth don’t chatter. You are in an ideal world, even if it is Canada.

      But we have 9 degrees by about 10 a.m., and the sky is blue, not overcast with light drizzle, so I win this competition at the moment.

      Welcome home.


  8. The weather is weird everywhere. In Louisiana, we’ve had an oddly warm and dry November. However it was oddly cool in September. December? I am hoping it will be temperate, not warm. Sorry about the birdbath.


    1. YaYa Girl: Must be that global warming we hear about except for the fact that it’s cold. Well, December begins tomorrow, and we’ll see how that plays out. Warmly, I pray.

      As for the birdbath, no harm done. Ice melts.


  9. I have been NOB for the past couple of weeks and have no plans on going back! I love my friends who decide to live there, but I certainly could not, except in one place, Oracle. I saw the conspicuous consumption going off the charts in Scottsdale, and I just cringe. Weather-wise, it was warm, but it was Arizona after all. Sure is a joy to get through Customs and Immigration in Guadalajara and feel that smile that comes over after being gone. We have had freezes out here at our little Rancho but haven’t in several years, and that is just fine with me.


    1. Peggy: I have a love-hate relationship with my former nation. And not having been there in almost a decade, I imagine many things have changed and not in a good way. I would sort of like to visit Houston again — New Orleans less so — but I recall the last visit, which struck me as astoundingly expensive, and it is, compared to here, which I have become accustomed to.

      Also, the last visit or two — we drove — my wife has faced absurd hurdles with U.S. Immigration at the Texas border even though she has a visitor visa, and should simply have been waved through. Once they even asked her for a utility bill to prove Mexican residence, the way Mexicans do it here. We didn’t have one in the suitcase, of course, and the dingbat agent finally blew it off.

      Screw ’em, I say.


Comments are closed.